ZUNI, NM (Sept. 27, 2023) — With support from Ancestral Rich Treasures of Zuni (ARTZ) and Administration for Native Americans (ANA), art students in the Zuni Youth Enrichment Project’s Emerging Artist Apprenticeship Program will have the opportunity to show their original work to the public on Friday, Oct. 13. That evening, 10 apprentices ages 15-24 will be participating in the Pueblo Sewing Showcase at ARTZ Cooperative Gallery from 5 to 7 p.m.
The Oct. 13 showcase will bring the current ZYEP Emerging Artist Apprenticeship to a close. For the past six weeks, instructors Raelynn Cachini and Hollie Nastacio have been leading art students through the complexities of Zuni Pueblo sewing and teaching them about the cultural significance of the individual garments.
According to Elroy Natachu Jr., ZYEP’s arts coordinator, traditional Zuni sewing reveals the ingenuity of the Zuni people. After colonization, seamstresses and seamsters took European wardrobe elements and blended them with culturally relevant elements to create the traditional dresses, scarves, sashes and aprons still used today.
“This cultural wardrobe dates to the 1880s and ’90s,” Natachu said. “The garments really started to change with the dance groups. They used colorful, exuberant fabrics and ribbons, and their garments were a reflection of our ancestors’ way of life. They transformed something oppressive into something that celebrated resilience.
“The garments were functional as well as decorative,” he continued. “The scarf over our shoulders, for example, provided shade while we were getting water or working in the garden. The apron represented the thin rug or piece of fabric we tucked into our sash belt to carry things and prevent the underdress from getting dirty.”
The apprentices’ first projects were a bread bag and an underdress. They learned to take proper measurements, make a pattern and then cut, pin and sew in such a way that the garment would be structurally sound.
They also learned the cultural context at the heart of what they were doing, and they built the mental fortitude to do the work, which requires complex hand-eye coordination.
“It’s not easy,” Natachu said. “No matter how many years you do this, you still can mis-cut or mis-measure something. Then you have to unstitch, re-pin, and re-sew. You have to push the students a little, reassure them and boost their confidence, because this can feel kind of scary. We keep reminding them that everyone learns and works differently, and at their own paces.
“It’s not for everyone, but these students definitely have the drive,” he added. “They ask a lot of questions, which means everyone benefits from an intergenerational exchange of ideas.”
Natachu observed that the apprentices have started to develop their own styles, with each student gravitating toward their own preferred colors, patterns and textures.
“What they like is starting to influence what they make, which is the light at the end of the tunnel,” he explained. “All their energy comes back.”
The art students also have developed a new appreciation for those in the community who do this for a living. A garment they are able to produce in a short amount of time might take a student days or even weeks.
“In hindsight, they feel badly about that rush order they might have placed,” Natachu observed with a laugh. “Now they understand the level of experience and expertise that goes into something like this. It’s the difference between mass-produced “fast fashion” and one-of-a-kind patterns that are difficult to replicate.”
ZYEP launched its Emerging Artist Apprenticeship Program in March 2022. It is designed to empower the next generation of Zuni artists so they can pursue careers in the arts as well as help strengthen the Pueblo of Zuni’s arts economy. While that economy has been dominated for decades by outside buyers buying low and selling high, that is changing through the rise of Native co-ops, independent businesses, and art shows.
To learn more about the Zuni Youth Enrichment Project and its programs, and for information about making donations, partnering with ZYEP, and volunteering, call (505) 782-8000 or visit zyep.org. And, to stay up to date on the latest news and events, follow the nonprofit youth organization on Facebook (/zuniyouthenrichmentproject), Instagram (@zuniyouthenrichmentproject), YouTube (/ZuniYouth), and TikTok (/zyep09)
Founded in 2009, the nonprofit Zuni Youth Enrichment Project is dedicated to promoting resilience among Zuni youth so they will grow into strong, healthy adults who are connected with Zuni traditions. ZYEP fulfills its mission by providing positive role models, enriching programs, and nurturing spaces that contribute to the healthy development of Zuni youth. ZYEP strives to provide every child with the encouragement and opportunities they need to reach their full potential.
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